
Hardboil some eggs, and crack the shells with the back of a spoon to make a beautiful cobwebby pattern. Mix up a concoction of soy sauce, loose leaf tea, star anise, black peppercorns, a touch of sugar, and a cinnamon stick. Simmer the hardboiled eggs for at least an hour; I like the flavor to really infuse the eggs, so I let it go longer. A perfect snack (I've even taken them hiking).


All right, surgical-type photos coming up. Notice has been given.


If you've been wondering why every baby has that Angelina Jolie look going for them, it's normal postoperative swelling. It usually peaks the first day or two after surgery, then comes down to a regular sized lip.

Warning: more graphic surgical photos upcoming...







There were a good dozen or so of us weary boys and girls, and I was a little concerned that there may not be enough masseuses to go around. Silly me - this is China, land of 1.2 billion strong.
Not only were there enough masseuses, but we could each get one for the body and one for the feet, working simultaneously. And, we had the option of a male or female masseuse, and then another choice: regular-sighted or blind (the Chinese believe that the blind have a special skill for massage). Incredibly, all that attention - for over an hour - cost us the equivalent of around USD$20.

I heard that in the boys' room, there was a little alarm over some of the neck manipulations being performed. Not to name names, but Charles asked if the masseuses had ever killed anyone. Apparently they just giggled in response...

Another excellent choice by our designated host, Pan. This restaurant was famous in Changde for its stinky tofu and pigs feet.
In the photo above, you can see folks lined up for some of that famous tofu to go. 1RMB for 3 delectable pieces, if I remember correctly (Alfred couldn't wait to be seated, and it was a very excellent decision).
Stinky tofu, you ask? Yes, it's exactly as it sounds - fermented tofu, with a very distinctive odor and surprisingly sublime taste. Kinder fans might try to trick you by translating it as "fragrant", but there's really no mistaking cho dofu for anything else. Catch a whiff of something vaguely resembling ammonia, rotten eggs, and maybe a bit of dog poo (sorry, but it's true) from a very crowded restaurant? You've found it.
Although to be honest, this restaurant's version wasn't half as stinky as some I've had elsewhere.


Left: the famed stinky tofu, deep fried and glorious.
Right: pigs feet (or trotters). The Chinese say that eating pigs feet makes women more beautiful; the science behind it might be all the collagen in the dish...




